Thursday, July 23, 2009
Lost in Translation: Interpreting Japanese Patterns
So, after much planning and deciding, I picked a dress to make from one of my Japanese pattern books. I've sewn handbags, doll clothing, baby accessories, crocheted all sorts of stuff and even felted accessories and toys from my collection of Japanese craft books. This will be my first attempt to make clothing for myself from a Japanese pattern book. Ok, first hurdle, figure out which pieces of the pattern from the pattern sheet belong to the dress, only three pieces, easy right? WRONG! I had to enlist my friends Michelle and Adriana, to very smart ladies with great graphic design and crafting skills and both good problem solvers (I consider myself in all three categories but apparently I needed 3 sets of eyes). After much frustration we figured out 2 of the pieces of which one of the pieces you had to add a bit of pattern to it, and they other, yes you guessed it, doesn't exist you have to make it from measurements and tiny diagrams. So finally I successfully traced and made the patterns and thankfully I realized that most Japanese patterns don't have a seam allowance on the pattern so you have to add your own when tracing the pattern. I bought beautiful fabric on Superbuzzy from Nani Iro, the one for this dress is the same one as the one pictured in the dress above. Because I'm not sure that pattern will work out well for me since Japanese ladies are built differently than latin ladies like myself, I'm trying it on a nice white gauze cotton that's similar in weight and fabrication as the Nani Iro stuff but a third of the cost. cross your fingers for me.
THIS IS THE DRESS
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How did your dress come out? Lessons learned? I just ordered 2 japanese pattern books and am eagerly awaiting their arrival!
ReplyDeleteI'm terrible. I still have the cut dress pattern sitting on my table, and it's not even of a matter of not understanding the pattern I just have been away a couple of weekends, the only time I have to work on it. I'm hoping this Saturday I will get a jump on it and start on the Nani Iro fabric. Will keep you updated I promise. I have to say there are other books that are way easier to interpret this ones just a bit confusing.
ReplyDeleteI am having the same dramas with this pattern. I can't find the neck interfacing. Could you tell me which piece needs another piece added onto it? I'm starting to think this job might be too big for me!! Love the designs but having all the pattern pieces on one sheet is a disaster (esp. as my Japanese language skills are non-existent!!).
ReplyDeletehey anonymous person:)
ReplyDeleteso there are only two pieces for this pattern actually in the patterns included, of which the bodice when you are adding the seam allowance you have to draw the sleeve look at the mini diagram on pattern placement. Then to do the neck placket you have to use the clean side of the top/bodice (not the sleeve side) to make your on pattern. In the pattern placement diagram you will see the piece it's laying next to the top/bodice piece matching it's curve and it gives to measurements one for a wider placket and one for a thinner on. Pick the size you want and add an additional 5/8" for seam allowance, don't forget to have the same angled curve as the top/bodice piece. Hope that helps, it sounds confusing, but it's much easier than you think, it's like ohhhhh that's what they mean, when you figure it out. The not knowing any japanese is definitely a missing piece to the puzzle I'm sure it tells you you have to build that pattern we just can't read it. Good Luck.
THANKS misskitty1970! I'll give it a go on some test fabric first!
ReplyDeleteOne last (probably dumb) question: when I cut the fabric do I have to add a seam allowance around the entire perimeter of the pattern piece? (Sorry, it' been a VERY long time since I have sewn and I have never used a Japanese pattern before.) Thanks!
ReplyDeleteoh no problem, I don't mind. All the patterns in this book do not have a seam allowance so yes add a seam allowance. Some books have them but this one doesn't.
ReplyDeleteThank you misskitty1970! I'm still a little confused - the piece that I THINK is the bodice doesn't appear to have a little "kicked out" bit for the sleeve. Is it more a gentle curve? In your opinion, does the fabric layout diagram in the book look different to the actual pattern piece? I photocopied the pattern so that I can cut it without butchering the original in case I get it badly wrong. I don't think my skills extend to tracing a pattern just yet!!
ReplyDeleteHi there again, don't what to address you as. So I posted a picture of the pattern layout page with notes written in I hope they help to answer your questions. The two pattern pieces available on the pattern page are laying directly on top of each other on the left hand corner while looking at the "J" on your top left.
ReplyDeletejannese
You are TOO kind!! I think I almost have the courage to start now, especially as you have explained so clearly how to draft the sleeve bit of the pattern. MANY THANKS!! I'll have to think of a blog "name" and send a picture if I have success!!
ReplyDeleteThanks for trying to hash out this pattern for us- I was read to pull out my hair trying to find the bodice pattern pieces!
ReplyDeleteCan you tell me the measurements for the actual bodice pieces? The width and height and how far the curve is out from the straight line of the fabric edge?
How did you figure this out?!
Thanks so much!